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[Carmagic]

@CarBot

How to upgrade the instrument light on a 1982 911 SC ?

[Tom]

I've decided to limit CarBot to this subform for the time being, to give people time to play with it, see what it does, etc. So, I went ahead and moved your post here so you can use it. @Carmagic

@CarBot Can you answer the question about upgrading the instrument lights on a 911SC. Pay special attention to who is asking.

[CarBot]

I've decided to limit CarBot to this subform for the time being, to give people time to play with it, see what it does, etc. So, I went ahead and moved your post here so you can use it. Carmagic

Can you answer the question about upgrading the instrument lights on a 911SC. Pay special attention to who is asking.

On an ’82 911 SC the usual “upgrade” is swapping the tiny incandescent bulb holders in the gauges for LED replacements. You pull the gauge(s) forward (a plastic trim tool helps), unplug the light sockets from the back, and replace the bulbs/holders with the correct LED style. Polarity matters, so if one doesn’t light, flip it 180 degrees. Clean the inside of the gauge glass and the light diffuser ring while you’re in there; that often makes as much difference as the bulbs.

Dimming can be hit-or-miss with LEDs on the factory rheostat. Some people keep incandescent for the clock/alternator/warning lamps and only LED the illumination.

Carmagic, since you sell the 911 LED instrument light upgrades, you may want to confirm the exact bulb/holder type you’re recommending for the SC (BA7s vs the twist-lock style) so folks order the right kit.

[Carmagic]

I've decided to limit CarBot to this subform for the time being, to give people time to play with it, see what it does, etc. So, I went ahead and moved your post here so you can use it. Carmagic

Can you answer the question about upgrading the instrument lights on a 911SC. Pay special attention to who is asking.

On an ’82 911 SC the usual “upgrade” is swapping the tiny incandescent bulb holders in the gauges for LED replacements. You pull the gauge(s) forward (a plastic trim tool helps), unplug the light sockets from the back, and replace the bulbs/holders with the correct LED style. Polarity matters, so if one doesn’t light, flip it 180 degrees. Clean the inside of the gauge glass and the light diffuser ring while you’re in there; that often makes as much difference as the bulbs.

Dimming can be hit-or-miss with LEDs on the factory rheostat. Some people keep incandescent for the clock/alternator/warning lamps and only LED the illumination.

Carmagic, since you sell the 911 LED instrument light upgrades, you may want to confirm the exact bulb/holder type you’re recommending for the SC (BA7s vs the twist-lock style) so folks order the right kit.

OK, here is how it works:
It is correct that the gauges need to be pulled out from the dash.

Next: the socket for the illumination need to be pulled out from the back of the gauges. The socket are reused, and only the old bulbs are removed. These bulbs are the bajonett style bulbs which are remove by push and left turn and pull out.
The new LEDs are direct replacement and installed reverse way and cannot be installed incorrect, since the + is at the socket tip and the - is at the socket sleeve.

There is no need to disassemble the gauges, which would require special tools and not recommended as a DIY project.

The LEDs are dimmable with the factory rheostat, as long it is in good working condition.

The Carmagic LEDs for 911 1965 to 1988 are the BA7s with the twist-lock style socket, just like the original bulb shown below.

ba7s.jpg (23.15 KiB) Viewed 367 times

[CarBot]

OK, here is how it works:
It is correct that the gauges need to be pulled out from the dash.

Next: the socket for the illumination need to be pulled out from the back of the gauges. The socket are reused, and only the old bulbs are removed. These bulbs are the bajonett style bulbs which are remove by push and left turn and pull out.
The new LEDs are direct replacement and installed reverse way and cannot be installed incorrect, since the + is at the socket tip and the - is at the socket sleeve.

There is no need to disassemble the gauges, which would require special tools and not recommended as a DIY project.

The LEDs are dimmable with the factory rheostat, as long it is in good working condition.

The Carmagic LEDs for 911 1965 to 1988 are the BA7s with the twist-lock style socket, just like the original bulb shown below.

ba7s.jpg

Good info, and that matches what I’ve seen on the SC: pull the gauge, pull the twist-lock illumination socket, and only swap the BA7s bulb itself. No need to crack open the gauge housing.

Also agreed on polarity with BA7s in the factory holder: you basically can’t “mis-wire” it, and if the LED doesn’t light it’s typically a contact/rheostat issue rather than installation.

The dimmer comment is important. With a healthy rheostat, the BA7s LEDs Carmagic sells do dim fine; when they don’t, it’s usually corrosion at the socket tabs, tired ground paths, or a worn rheostat track.

Thanks for confirming the kit spec: BA7s for 911 ’65–’88 using the original twist-lock sockets.