Manual Boost Controller Recommendations?

[Tom]

I have a few people who will be testing out our basic performance chip for the 951, and as promised I'd like to supply them with a manual boost controller to support the effort. I've been using my antique (but beloved) Profec B for decades, and haven't really kept up with manual controllers. Any recommendations on which one to get?

[Fejjj951]

http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/

[cda951]

I second the Hallman recommendation. The interesting parallel with the 951 world is the old-school Lindsey Boost Enhancer has similar construction, an adjustable spring-loaded check ball to completely block the wastegate signal until the spring pressure is overcome, which improves turbo spool versus the usual bleeder valve MBC.

The LBE was not designed to INCREASE the boost level per se, but could be adjusted to do so. The Hallman MBC likely uses a stiffer spring to allow boost levels well above 1.0 bar.

[Tom]

I second the Hallman recommendation. The interesting parallel with the 951 world is the old-school Lindsey Boost Enhancer has similar construction, an adjustable spring-loaded check ball to completely block the wastegate signal until the spring pressure is overcome, which improves turbo spool versus the usual bleeder valve MBC.

The LBE was not designed to INCREASE the boost level per se, but could be adjusted to do so. The Hallman MBC likely uses a stiffer spring to allow boost levels well above 1.0 bar.

Can you mount the Hellman in the cabin? The one I saw looked more like an old-school under-the-hood controller?

[Fejjj951]

Yes

[cda951]

Can you mount the Hellman in the cabin? The one I saw looked more like an old-school under-the-hood controller?

The general rule of thumb is to keep such boost/vacuum signal lines as short as possible for signal accuracy, whether for a MBC or for an electronic MAP sensor.

The link below mentions a remote control cable for the Hallman MBC. I doubt they would have gone through the effort of developing it if there wasn't a good reason to do so.

That said, how often do you plan to adjust the boost pressure?

http://www.hallmanboostcontroller.com/applic.html

[MoeMonney]

no need to spend allot for a manual boost controller.

https://es.aliexpress.com/item/10050080 ... in_prod%3A

[danmartinic]

I have a few people who will be testing out our basic performance chip for the 951, and as promised I'd like to supply them with a manual boost controller to support the effort. I've been using my antique (but beloved) Profec B for decades, and haven't really kept up with manual controllers. Any recommendations on which one to get?

You're developing a chip Tom? Sorry.. been out of the loop for a while now

I would love to see a chip like my current A-Tune that *doesn't* use an extra MAP sensor. I've already had one MAP sensor fail on me and I don't like having to worry about this extra sensor, especially since I don't care to increase total boost over stock so the already-existing KLR 1-bar (15psi) MAP sensor is just fine.

Is it even possible to make a 3D fuelling map for WOT using the existing KLR MAP sensor?

[Tom]

I have a few people who will be testing out our basic performance chip for the 951, and as promised I'd like to supply them with a manual boost controller to support the effort. I've been using my antique (but beloved) Profec B for decades, and haven't really kept up with manual controllers. Any recommendations on which one to get?

You're developing a chip Tom? Sorry.. been out of the loop for a while now

I would love to see a chip like my current A-Tune that *doesn't* use an extra MAP sensor. I've already had one MAP sensor fail on me and I don't like having to worry about this extra sensor, especially since I don't care to increase total boost over stock so the already-existing KLR 1-bar (15psi) MAP sensor is just fine.

Is it even possible to make a 3D fuelling map for WOT using the existing KLR MAP sensor?

We did a comprehensive guide on burning your own chip, which can be found here. It includes sample performance chip images, along with access to literally every map in the DME chip. It finally unlocks literally everything in the chip -- no more secrets! It was motivated by seeing people still paying $700 for basic chips -- sold by people who are capitalizing on the R&D done by others way back in the day.

You are wise to keep it to 15psi on street gas, but just FYI the map sensor in the KLR does not prevent you from running more than 15psi -- it will just peg the factory boost gauge but won't cause any other issues. You do need to defeat overboost protection in the DME chip (and in the KLR chip IF you stick with the stock cycling valve). Our SpeedoBooster can even remap the boost gauge for those who want high boost to register on the dash, I'm not a big believer in the 3D maps vs a well-tuned car using the stock chip map architecture. Unless you are extending the measurable air flow with the map sensor, I think the 3d maps are cool and all -- and maybe this is unfair -- but I think people get caught up in the technological achievement (which is impressive for sure) but with added complications and negligible real-world benefit for most cars. Of course, I'm stuck in ways, so consider the source.

[danmartinic]

Wow just read that chip tuning thread. Wild & impressive

Post #12 - it appears that the tables for the modified chips have LESS fuel in the 3000-5000 rpm range than the stock chips. Did you mix the tables up?

If the cycling valve has been removed and different boost control is used (MBC etc), the stock-chipped KLR overboost protection no longer protects anything, correct?

Post #55: no cat cars didn't come with an O2 sensor? Is the only function of the O2 sensor emissions-related? I thought the regulation of the AFR in closed-loop is helpful for reliability, fuel economy, perhaps driveability (accompanying for wear over time). Is there any advantage other than emissions for keeping the O2 sensor plugged in?

In the most recent posts, discussion revolves around return-to-idle ; return-to-throttle. I can tell I need to re-solder my boards as the car will start jerking / bunny-hopping more often, esp at the low-rpm off-throttle ; on-throttle and "creeping" in traffic speeds. After a re-solder, all this diappears

More than ever I wish I kept the cycling valve. I am very happy with stock boost and I only got rid of it because it was showing bubbles (leaking) at the electrical connections when testing for vacuum leaks using pressurized air

New ones were quite pricey vs MBC and in my limited knowledge coupled with all the boost hype, I ditched it, only to try and dial in similar max boost as stock; I got rid of a sophisticated electronic control for a cheap plastic knob

Now that I understand things more, I kinda want it back, but I've since removed all the mounting and they are NLA anyway.

I run the A-Tune chip with both a ball-and-spring on the wastegate feed line (a la Lindsay Boost Enhancer) AND the MBC--one helps boost build sooner and the other protects for overboost (I understand the ball & springs are not as reliable in overboost protection)

But I guess I have lost all the subtleties of the KLR and its various fine-tuned controls over airflow...

Stock Man Dan