Carpokes Porsche Forum

I'm in the process of repacking my CV joints to address a clicking noise.
I've discovered one CV I feel is bad, so ordered a new one from GetPorscheSilverSpringsParts.com , so it SHOULD be OEM part.
The question I have is the ball cage. One side of the outer surface has a chamfer, and the other does not.
I've read conflicting direction as to which way the chamfer edge should face. The (what I believe to be) original axles have the chamfer facing out or facing the wheel hub on one end and the diff on the other, as does the new CV.
YouTube info leads to the chamfer facing inward for increased axle articulation and angularity.
A Pelican Parts post had a similar point but final outcome was not clear.
I'm leaning to what the car had but would like to get input from others if possible, or,
does it really matter on a RWD street car that will not likely see high angularity on half shafts that AWD or more off road oriented vehicle?

A picture might help, as I'm not 100% sure which chamfer you mean? When I did mine, I noticed the little ridge, as shown in the pictures below. I can't remember how I concluded which side was which, but remember obsessing on it enough to call the manufacturer, who said it didn't matter, and then finding 'something' compelling to conclude it's best to install them like this:

Here is a page from the Pelican Parts Forum that has pictures of my concern.
http://forums.pelicanparts.com/porsche- ... ion-2.html
The first or top photo shows the bevel of the ball cage, the second photo is a flip side of the same CV joint.
The new one I have is similar as are the originals.
Perhaps I'm making a mountain out of a molehill...just trying to do it right the first time.
Thank you for your time and patience.

What brand are the CB joint you bought? I've been looking at various pics on the internet and they do seem to differ from Lobro vs. Empi etc. If in doubt, I'd look at replacement axle assemblies from the same make and do yours the way they sell them. That said, as long as you follow the basics and the joint moves freely after assembly, I think a lot of the internet advice is (1) hard to validate, and (2) intended to pick up an extra degree of movement here and there but not all that important really. When I called EMPI that time and asked, the product service engineer guy basically rolled his eyes over the phone and said none of those subtleties really mattered as long as it articulates after assembly.

Tom, Thank you for the feedback.
The CV joint is a Porsche part from what I can tell as it looks to be the same as those in the car which I believe to be OEM.
Here are some pictures to show what I was trying to describe.
Here is the bevel I mentioned. Here is the flip side without the bevel. Here is a photo with three grooves which face either the hub or the diff, basically the outer ends of the axle. The bevel face of the cage is on this side. Here is the single groove that faces the axle, basically towards the center of the axle. The non beveled face of the cage is on this side. Finally, here is the part number from the new CV. Maybe a bit hard to read. But I agree with your assessment that there will be little difference from a functional standpoint so I'm going with the three rings out and thus the bevel out which is what the car had when I purchased.
The advice from YouTube seems to lack definitive substantiation regarding bevel direction.
I've also decided to go with Redline CV2 red moly grease as a RL search seemed to conclude it performs better and lasts longer than the black moly grease that is included in the boot kits
Thanks to the patience to all who reviewed.

On the "flip side without the bezel," the splines are chamfered to help it slide on to the axles, so to me that would be the inboard side. Can't quite tell from those pictures if that's your plan....?

Sharp eye!
I hadn't noticed the chamfer on the splines but you a correct. The spline chamfer side will go inboard.
Thank you

So just for future reference if someone needs to reassemble that style joint, where does that put the 3 rings?

The three rings face outward from the axle or away from the center.
Here is a photo of what I believe to be the original CV before removal.

I agree with the consensus on the orientation of the inner and outer CV joint flanges.

One universal point to make is to take a pair of non-marring channel-lock pliers and clamp down the cap all the way around (make sure the CV bolts are inserted to ensure it is clocked correctly). This helps to ensure that when torquing the CV bolts to 31 ft-lbs, all of the applied torque is providing clamping force at the CV joint rather than compressing the cap to the CV joint---this is one of the leading causes of CV axle boots coming loose!

In any case, re-torquing the CV bolts after the initial drive/heat cycle is also a good idea.