Carpokes Porsche Forum

I noticed a clicking from the left rear at a frequency of once per revolution of the wheel. The tire company removed and check the wheel and tire, finding nothing. No dangling weights or broken TPMS. I found no sign of anything contacting, and the 20-inch wheels have lots of clearance to the calipers, etc.

The one thing I didn't think to do while they had the wheel lifted was to check for CV joint or wheel bearing play.

My only experience with failing CV joints is in FWD transaxle cars; and in those cases, the clicking was only while turning - at least at first. Since the rear will click while I'm rolling straight and very slow, I wonder: is it the CV joint, and if so, is it likely just starting to go bad or is it warning it is about to let go?

Any experience with this situation, I'd appreciate feedback. I guess I'll show up on the dealer's doorstep in the morning, but I wonder. TIA

No clicking for me but I did have an inner rear CV joint on my '21 GT4 that needed work at 12k miles. It's possible that's the culprit for you. The mounting bolts had loosened allowing for unwanted play, CV joint grease was slung out all over the area of the right inboard joint. Warranty took care of it with lots of new parts. They went the extra mile with the new parts to make sure it was corrected properly.

I also experienced a clicking noise and after some searching on line was lead to a conclusion of CV joint grease drying out. My 89 951 saw little or no use for several years do to life and my son's education taking precedence to my personal pursuits. Retirement changed that and I started to bring my car back to life. Once the primary engine service and updating was done and I started driving it, I noticed the clicking. I determined one CV joint was bad, so ordered a new one, and decided to repack all the CV joints with fresh grease. That solved my problem. In researching the process to repack/replace/reinstall mine, there were several posts of people doing the work and then having the bolts back out after some use. I was uber careful to keep the threads of the bolts clean of any grease and used new bolts all around. Once set to torque specs and double checking after some driving, I did not experience anything backing off from proper torque spec.

^^^ This! ^^^

I've read more than a few posts over the years from folks who have suffered from the bolts-not-tight-enough symptom. The torque spec on my car is more than twice what the average person might casually assume. Double-check the specs for your car and tighten appropriately. A few long extensions let me get the torque wrench out closer to the wheel to access the bolts above the axle, instead of fighting the axle and the inner CV boot with the axle drooped. An assistant on the brake pedal lets me tighten a bolt then rotate the axle for the next one.

Over the years and models, CV joints have included gaskets, o-rings, and sometimes between the inner joint and the drive flange on the differential to keep the grease inside.

Some models use locking tabs with hex-head bolts, some use bolt stretch on washers to hold the bolts in place. There's a very good case for using bolts drilled for safety wire, and using safety wire, especially if you drive the car hard or do track days.