2.8L N/A 318hp Build Recipe

[Tom]

Since I haven't worked with Millennium in many years, be sure to check with them for current pricing and what their services include. They used to offer stud removal during their Nikasil plating. This could be attractive for many since head and water pump stud removal is often difficult, even in the shop with special tools. I always remove the oil galley plugs before the plating, but it seems to me I never bothered removing bell housing dowels, bal shaft cover dowels or the roll pin for #1 main bearing without problems. I also left the vertical oil plug for the cylinder head in place, but check with Millennium about leaving some of these ferrous parts installed. They will also deck your block if requested. I used their decking service occasionally since there is a risk of carbide cutters chipping the Nikasil coating at the cylinder tops if I would deck them afterwards.

Use lots and lots of cardboard cushioning/protection when packing for shipment. Shippers will do their best to damage corners of the block when they are dropped off the conveyer or the back of the truck. They have no mercy and will be happy to demonstrate that.

When the block gets back it needs to be washed thoroughly. Clean the bores with detergent and water and a bore brush, then wash all oil passages with the proper long brushes, and all the threaded holes with your bench made thread cleaning tools (NOT taps). I use old studs and/or long bolts in each thread size with several longitudinal grooves cut into the threads with a cut-off tool. These are very effective and are quick when used with a 5/16 battery powered impact gun set on slow and low torque. The grooves in the threads will pull out old sealant, Loctite, and whatever else is left from the Nikasil coating processes. I've also found some grey gritty material in the oil passages, so be the guy in charge of sparkle. Finish by blowing out all holes and blow all surfaces with an air nozzle and high pressure air. I typically replace the oil galley plugs with new Porsche plugs sealed with 574. Staking them with a dull, rounded chisel or threading the passages for pipe plugs may add to your peace of mind. There are 2 sizes of these plugs. Very late blocks like the 968 used a 1mm larger plug. Finally, wipe the bores with WD40 and blue paper towels several times until the towels come out clean. Confirm your bore measurements, your piston to cylinder clearance, then you're ready to assemble. I install head studs at the correct height with only CMD Extreme Pressure Lube on the block side threads, never Loctite.

If Millennium still offers +/- .0002 tolerance without charge, strongly consider taking advantage of this. They will nail the spec.

MM

I am slowly stripping down my original 86 motor and plan to send to them fairly soon, taking work order tips from you. I'll report back on what they say in terms of removing pins and studs and such. The head studs have been replaced with raceware, so those should come out no problem. Crank girdle studs might be another matter, but I do have a dowel pin extraction tool that works great. Stay tuned.

[michaelmount123]

Once the lower case half studs are removed, I'd fasten the girdle with a couple of old bolts to protect the machined surfaces from shipping damage.

[Tom]

Once the lower case half studs are removed, I'd fasten the girdle with a couple of old bolts to protect the machined surfaces from shipping damage.

Ah, ok. Do they need the girdle?

[michaelmount123]

No, they have no need for the girdle. It would be only to protect the lower side of the block during shipping. For that matter, the deck surface would need plenty of protection too - corners especially.

[Remi]

Continuing the discussion about my specific build here in this thread, to keep the information open to passers-by

I did contact Millennium about this work. They do still offer Nikasil coating work for these blocks and the prices are decent (Was quoted between 1500 and 2k depending on effort/complexity) however the turn around time wasn't going to work as I need the car back on the road by May this year, so I've had to adjust my plans a bit.

I have referenced in another thread with some pictures of my engine teardown carnage (https://carpokes.com/viewtopic.php?t=2705) that I wish to keep two engines. One that can be in the car and used, and a second that will be built as a backup. I am still going to keep my block and have it refinished, and build a high output motor for next year. That also gives me time to find a 3.0 crank and get the ITB setup made to have it ready to go on the car with the engine. Next year.

For this year's build I'm ordering a new block and reusing my current rods, crank, etc with new pistons, just aiming for stock power levels so I can use my current fuel management setup. I plan on getting someone to check the head and install new valve seals and guides if needed. Basically just a stock rebuild, but with a new block and aftermarket pistons.

@michaelmount123 I would be interested in getting your input on Pistons to use for this new plan.

I see that Wossner offers a set made for Alusil, but it's 11.5:1 compression and for this build I want to stick with stock fuel management for logistical reasons (time. Travelling to a town with a dyno is time I won't have until the fall)

Any advice from the group on any other opportunities to take advantage of when using a new block for a stock 16v build?

[michaelmount123]

Sounds like a plan, Remi. The 944S has a C/R of 10.9:1, so the Wossner's aren't far off. They will also build a custom piston for you with a dish to make any C/R you like. I suggest you measure the combustion chamber in your head once it is refurbished, then calculate the piston dish+valve pocket volume needed. Google is your friend for the calculations. Either Karl at Racer's Edge, or Chris White at 944 Enhancement can source the pistons for you. If you're near the east coast, perhaps I can recondition your cylinder head for you. I still do a few of these.
MM

[michaelmount123]

IMG_3142.jpg (2.73 MiB) Viewed 155 times

Here's a 2.5L 4V engine for a race only application. It shows what can be done with the 'small' engine, but with a lot of work and lots of RPM.
4" bore (S2 block)
3.104" stroke (std. 2.5L with rod journals cut to 2")
2564cc displacement
944S head fully ported
40mm intake valve
33mm exhaust valve
6.2" Pauter rods (+.300" length)
2" Chevy (NASCAR) rod bearings
JE custom pistons
13.45:1 compression
Billet IR intake manifold
50mm DC0 Weber carbs
Dougherty Solid lifter cams - big!
Dry sump / MM oil pan
Power peaked at 7900rpm
1.875" header
MSD crank fire ignition

Looking at this today, I'd probably advance the cams more, and tune the ignition advance to increase the power at lower RPM, and try to keep most of the high RPM power. The result would be more average power throughout the rev range.

[blade7]

Once the lower case half studs are removed, I'd fasten the girdle with a couple of old bolts to protect the machined surfaces from shipping damage.

Ah, ok. Do they need the girdle?

I think the top machine shop over here uses the girdle, to accurately datum the main housings to the bores. And unless the situation has been resolved, Wossners Alusil coating was kaput.