Slow crank rate when hot - 2006 911

Tech and talk about the 997 and 996
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Rotor
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Had the same problem with my 08 CS2. Swapped the battery ground cable and the starter, the problem is gone.


Rotor,
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08 997S
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aboyandhisdog
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Well, this Monday I dove in there to replace the starter and the "Y" cable that runs from the alternator to the starter and then down to the side of the transmission where it connects to the main pos. lead from the battery.

For years my 997 has taken about 4 cranks to start, hot or cold. It would turn for about 3-4 seconds but would always fire right up. Last Oct. I was on a road trip (interstate) and after leaving a rest area with a hot engine, there might be a momentary hesitation in the starter not catching at all. I thought this very strange indeed. Acted like a loose connection for a couple of seconds and would then fire up.

Anyway, after reading the beginning of this thread, I decided that R&Ring my starter and Y cable was in my future. I'm happy to say that now it takes about 1/2 second to fire up the car. Wicked fast starts now!

The job took me about 6 hours total and I'd say that maybe half of that was fighting for access to certain bolts. Porsche did not design these engines well for some repairs, and getting the starter out is one of them. I hope I'll never have to R&R the AOS as that one could be a bear for sure. Easy with the engine out, of course!

That said, changing out the starter and this cable is certainly doable and offers great satisfaction to a DIY mechanic like me! Saved a ton of money, and I really like working out in my carport with my dog helping me!


-Tom
Fort Collins, Colorado
997 C2, 2006

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911-Purist
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bettergolf wrote: Tue Mar 28, 2023 3:36 pm I’ve owned my 2006 911 Carrera S for about 10 years. Seems like when the car has been driven for over 10 miles, that if I turn off the ignition (maybe to fill gas tank), and try to restart the car, I get a slower crank rate? If the car cools down for a little, the crank rate goes back to normal.
Based on what you stated, it is not the much talked about cable that runs from the stud at the transmission junction block [passenger side] to the starter and alternator. Exact same problem on a friend's 2005 that I diagnosed. Unfortunately, upon recommendations on a Porsche forum, he had already bought the cable...unnecessarily. If the cable has not been overheated at the crimps and changed color, the issue is elsewhere.

I rebuilt his starter and this is what the problem was...
https://www.smugmug.com/gallery/n-k4hmS4


Alex
1995 911 Carrera (993) 6-speed manual.
2015 911 Carrera 4 GTS (991.1) 7-speed manual.
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BMW: 1986 R80 G/S PD, 1990 R100 GS, 2016 R1200 GSA LC and a 2003 Kawasaki KLR 650.

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aboyandhisdog
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In my case, I believe the "Y" cable most definitely was part of the problem. After removal of the cable, I could twist the cable within the end that bolts up to the starter. This is certainly not how it should be. Whether or not the starter was also part of the problem, I can't say. But it makes sense to replace both starter and cable while you're in there.


-Tom
Fort Collins, Colorado
997 C2, 2006

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911-Purist
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aboyandhisdog wrote: Sat Feb 24, 2024 7:32 amIn my case, I believe the "Y" cable most definitely was part of the problem.
Well I believe in testing instead of guessing. I took some voltage drop measurements proving the cable was fine. In a 12V system the maximum allowable voltage drop is 0.5V from source to load.

Unfortunately, my 997 friend had already bought the cable and he wanted it installed since he had it. Once we had the cable off, all crimps looked fine of course and he threw out a perfectly good cable. I installed the new cable and those hold-downs running across the back of the engine were a PITA to get to.

Still a slow hot start after that, no surprise. I had him replace the starter while I took his old one apart and noted the issue. Jokingly I said, "its not your starter"...just kidding I said a few moments later. :lol:


Alex
1995 911 Carrera (993) 6-speed manual.
2015 911 Carrera 4 GTS (991.1) 7-speed manual.
2017 Acura RDX Elite - daily driver.
BMW: 1986 R80 G/S PD, 1990 R100 GS, 2016 R1200 GSA LC and a 2003 Kawasaki KLR 650.

#15

bettergolf
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Folks I got the SLOW CRANK when HOT issue SOLVED!!!!

It was the starter cable. Got it replaced (parts & labor cost was just under $2,000 here in the Naples, FL area).


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bettergolf wrote: Fri Mar 22, 2024 3:11 pm Folks I got the SLOW CRANK when HOT issue SOLVED!!!!

It was the starter cable. Got it replaced (parts & labor cost was just under $2,000 here in the Naples, FL area).
OMG, sorry to say but you got taken.


Alex
1995 911 Carrera (993) 6-speed manual.
2015 911 Carrera 4 GTS (991.1) 7-speed manual.
2017 Acura RDX Elite - daily driver.
BMW: 1986 R80 G/S PD, 1990 R100 GS, 2016 R1200 GSA LC and a 2003 Kawasaki KLR 650.

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bettergolf
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Actually, I checked with the two Porsche dealers for the price, and TWO auto shops that deal strictly with German cars here in Naples area. Everyone was within $50.


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blueline
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bettergolf wrote: Fri Mar 29, 2024 1:04 pm Actually, I checked with the two Porsche dealers for the price, and TWO auto shops that deal strictly with German cars here in Naples area. Everyone was within $50.
Service labor and parts is not inexpensive and it's gotten far worse the past couple of years.

Glad you got if fixed and that it solved the issue. :thumbup:


Tim
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aboyandhisdog
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The cable itself is around $150+-. I think if a guy was quite skilled, efficient, and had done the job before, it might be a 3 hour job or so with all the right tools.

This is one thing that really grinds my gears about Porsche dealers and even the indy shops...their prices are unreal. They mark up parts 3-4X, bill at $250/hour, and that still isn't enough! I do all of my own work to the extent that I can, and I dread the day that I ever need to go to a shop.

I do think they took advantage of you but , sadly, that seems to just be standard operating procedure with Porsche mechanics. Shameful, IMO.


-Tom
Fort Collins, Colorado
997 C2, 2006

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