Woohoo - Its alive, BUT...
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Tom
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Sure you are using the correct seal? There are two different sizes. Also, how sure are you it's not the oil pan gasket right there in the corner? You had a pretty big leak for a less than obvious issue... ?
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Drscottsmith
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I know…that is the most puzzling part - although I thought it was interesting that air pressure through the dipstick would not force the leak.
It could be the gasket but I did check the bolts in that area early on and everything checked out.
The seal is the correct one according to PET (30x48x7).
I did notice that the upset shaft bearing does not protrude as much, and realized that I could seat the lower seal a little bit better see pics below. Again there was no leak from the seal, but maybe that had something to do with it.
Thus far I have not removed anything related to timing. Can I safely reinstall the balance shaft cover and starter and start the engine (with no balance shaft belt, not alt or ps belts, no covers, etc) to check for leaks?
It could be the gasket but I did check the bolts in that area early on and everything checked out.
The seal is the correct one according to PET (30x48x7).
I did notice that the upset shaft bearing does not protrude as much, and realized that I could seat the lower seal a little bit better see pics below. Again there was no leak from the seal, but maybe that had something to do with it.
Thus far I have not removed anything related to timing. Can I safely reinstall the balance shaft cover and starter and start the engine (with no balance shaft belt, not alt or ps belts, no covers, etc) to check for leaks?
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Drscottsmith
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Tom
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The motor does not need the balance shafts to run, but if you don't have some way to block the oil feeds, you'll be pumping oil into the covers and out the big hole in front. But you could put it all back together without the timing belt covers to see if that gives you a better sense where the oil is coming from. I'm leaning toward the oil pan gasket if everything above it looked clean and good.
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Drscottsmith
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No I meant put the lower balance shaft back together minus the belt - just so everything would be sealed up and pressurize so I can see everything and pinpoint the leak.
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Tom
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Oh yeah, that should work.Drscottsmith wrote: Sat Oct 07, 2023 5:08 pm No I meant put the lower balance shaft back together minus the belt - just so everything would be sealed up and pressurize so I can see everything and pinpoint the leak.
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Drscottsmith
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Ok well looks like Tom wins!
After pulling it all apart and putting the bare minimum back on to get it running, it definitely looks like the leak is from where the oil pan meets the bottom side of the oil pan gasket.
Doesn’t look like any is seeping out of the top side of the gasket.
So now I get to figure that out, but now we know.
After pulling it all apart and putting the bare minimum back on to get it running, it definitely looks like the leak is from where the oil pan meets the bottom side of the oil pan gasket.
Doesn’t look like any is seeping out of the top side of the gasket.
So now I get to figure that out, but now we know.
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Tom
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Hmmm... sorry about that. That usually means the oil pan needs to come off.Drscottsmith wrote: Wed Oct 11, 2023 5:04 pm Ok well looks like Tom wins!
After pulling it all apart and putting the bare minimum back on to get it running, it definitely looks like the leak is from where the oil pan meets the bottom side of the oil pan gasket.
Doesn’t look like any is seeping out of the top side of the gasket.
So now I get to figure that out, but now we know.
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Drscottsmith
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Well adding a new twist to things...
Have not pulled the oil pan yet but started disassembly towards that. I have mounted my new cooling fans and have the MS controlling them by lifting the ground on the control lead. This turns the fans on full speed for now but that is ok for testing. Will worry about the variable speed Arduino control in the future. At least the full on has a ramp up by default so it does not shock the battery.
Have run for 20 minutes up to temp and all seems well except for the oil leak. Wanted to get that :20 min or so first continuous run in on the fresh oil before draining to drop the pan.
BUT....now all of a sudden my injectors have ceased to fire. I feel like this is a MS control issue. I have 12v at the injectors, but the noid light will not illuminate on any injector in test mode or attempted start. The engine does try to 'catch' as it is starting.
Cyl 1 injector was somewhat random in firing the noid light so in thinking that may be the cause of my rough idle I did rebuild my injector portion of the harness so that the pairs of injectors matched the coil pairs (I had them backwards but didn't think it mattered). I do have the 12v after the refresh, so I think everything is ok there.
Any thoughts?
Have not pulled the oil pan yet but started disassembly towards that. I have mounted my new cooling fans and have the MS controlling them by lifting the ground on the control lead. This turns the fans on full speed for now but that is ok for testing. Will worry about the variable speed Arduino control in the future. At least the full on has a ramp up by default so it does not shock the battery.
Have run for 20 minutes up to temp and all seems well except for the oil leak. Wanted to get that :20 min or so first continuous run in on the fresh oil before draining to drop the pan.
BUT....now all of a sudden my injectors have ceased to fire. I feel like this is a MS control issue. I have 12v at the injectors, but the noid light will not illuminate on any injector in test mode or attempted start. The engine does try to 'catch' as it is starting.
Cyl 1 injector was somewhat random in firing the noid light so in thinking that may be the cause of my rough idle I did rebuild my injector portion of the harness so that the pairs of injectors matched the coil pairs (I had them backwards but didn't think it mattered). I do have the 12v after the refresh, so I think everything is ok there.
Any thoughts?