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Re: $85 Amazon expansion tank.

Posted: Mon Jun 15, 2026 10:15 am
by Mscromer
Black944 turbo wrote: Mon Jun 15, 2026 9:34 am Does it have the level lines? Just curious.
Yes it does but not quite like the original porsche one . If you zoom into the pic of the top of the tank you can see it says maximum and minimum. It’s a little hard to see.

Re: $85 Amazon expansion tank.

Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2026 1:29 pm
by t36
fasterfaster wrote: Tue Jun 02, 2026 8:49 pm I bought what I imagine is the same unit off of AliExpress. Recently fitted. No problems sealing so far, even though I'm having an overheating problem and for sure pressure tested it to the full 15psi of my rad cap.

Fitment wasn't perfect and had to yard on it a little bit (maybe 5mm) to line of the 3 mounting points, but nothing that felt too extreme.

I've got my old one which functions perfectly but is a very authentic shade of brown/yellow if someone wants a good deal on an factory unit.

edit: I've been using the Vevor pressure tester, and it's been great for both testing and bleeding. I trust it more than a vacuum bleeder as it stresses the seals in the right direction. I ended up with an extra one through a Vevor error, and they didn't ask for it back, so that's also up for grabs to a community member - preferably local to SF Bay Area.
Do you have a thread for the overheating? I thought I was, turned out to be engine grounds.

Re: $85 Amazon expansion tank.

Posted: Thu Jun 18, 2026 4:42 pm
by BennSport
t36 wrote: Thu Jun 18, 2026 1:29 pm
fasterfaster wrote: Tue Jun 02, 2026 8:49 pm I bought what I imagine is the same unit off of AliExpress. Recently fitted. No problems sealing so far, even though I'm having an overheating problem and for sure pressure tested it to the full 15psi of my rad cap.

Fitment wasn't perfect and had to yard on it a little bit (maybe 5mm) to line of the 3 mounting points, but nothing that felt too extreme.

I've got my old one which functions perfectly but is a very authentic shade of brown/yellow if someone wants a good deal on an factory unit.

edit: I've been using the Vevor pressure tester, and it's been great for both testing and bleeding. I trust it more than a vacuum bleeder as it stresses the seals in the right direction. I ended up with an extra one through a Vevor error, and they didn't ask for it back, so that's also up for grabs to a community member - preferably local to SF Bay Area.
Do you have a thread for the overheating? I thought I was, turned out to be engine grounds.
@t36 I’m very curious to hear how grounds were the fault, as I’ve been chasing intermittent overheating issues

Re: $85 Amazon expansion tank.

Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2026 4:48 pm
by t36
BennSport wrote: Thu Jun 18, 2026 4:42 pm
t36 wrote: Thu Jun 18, 2026 1:29 pm
fasterfaster wrote: Tue Jun 02, 2026 8:49 pm I bought what I imagine is the same unit off of AliExpress. Recently fitted. No problems sealing so far, even though I'm having an overheating problem and for sure pressure tested it to the full 15psi of my rad cap.

Fitment wasn't perfect and had to yard on it a little bit (maybe 5mm) to line of the 3 mounting points, but nothing that felt too extreme.

I've got my old one which functions perfectly but is a very authentic shade of brown/yellow if someone wants a good deal on an factory unit.

edit: I've been using the Vevor pressure tester, and it's been great for both testing and bleeding. I trust it more than a vacuum bleeder as it stresses the seals in the right direction. I ended up with an extra one through a Vevor error, and they didn't ask for it back, so that's also up for grabs to a community member - preferably local to SF Bay Area.
Do you have a thread for the overheating? I thought I was, turned out to be engine grounds.
@t36 I’m very curious to hear how grounds were the fault, as I’ve been chasing intermittent overheating issues

for months and months my gauge was reading high. A proper turbo in my climate should read just over, but close to the line below the middle of the coolant gauge.
My temp was hanging out above halfway on the gauge. I bled the system endlessly. No bubbles. Multiple times I IR temp checked different spots. My temperatures were not overheating - I was fairly sure but I had never needed to use an IR temp gun prior to this so I didn't rule out overheating.
I took the wires off the temp sensor and put a multimeter on and the numbers were consistent with what my IR was saying.
I got a variable resistor and checked my gauges function. There is a write up on how to do this on Clarks garage.
My gauge was reading high. So I thought maybe it was the gauge.
I removed the gauge cleaned and tested again.

Then, one day, my car didn't start.

I replaced battery, checked for injector pulse etc etc. Tested reference sensors. I was so confused as to what it was. My starter didn't have enough juice to turn over the engine quick enough for the KLR to allow the motor to run.
I spent a couple hours getting the grounds at the back of the motor really clean.

Car fired right up, gauge started working as it should.

Try to clean those grounds as clean as you possibly can. Even my voltage gauge reads accurately now.

Re: $85 Amazon expansion tank.

Posted: Fri Jun 19, 2026 4:56 pm
by BennSport
t36 wrote: Fri Jun 19, 2026 4:48 pm
BennSport wrote: Thu Jun 18, 2026 4:42 pm
t36 wrote: Thu Jun 18, 2026 1:29 pm

Do you have a thread for the overheating? I thought I was, turned out to be engine grounds.
@t36 I’m very curious to hear how grounds were the fault, as I’ve been chasing intermittent overheating issues

for months and months my gauge was reading high. A proper turbo in my climate should read just over, but close to the line below the middle of the coolant gauge.
My temp was hanging out above halfway on the gauge. I bled the system endlessly. No bubbles. Multiple times I IR temp checked different spots. My temperatures were not overheating - I was fairly sure but I had never needed to use an IR temp gun prior to this so I didn't rule out overheating.
I took the wires off the temp sensor and put a multimeter on and the numbers were consistent with what my IR was saying.
I got a variable resistor and checked my gauges function. There is a write up on how to do this on Clarks garage.
My gauge was reading high. So I thought maybe it was the gauge.
I removed the gauge cleaned and tested again.

Then, one day, my car didn't start.

I replaced battery, checked for injector pulse etc etc. Tested reference sensors. I was so confused as to what it was. My starter didn't have enough juice to turn over the engine quick enough for the KLR to allow the motor to run.
I spent a couple hours getting the grounds at the back of the motor really clean.

Car fired right up, gauge started working as it should.

Try to clean those grounds as clean as you possibly can. Even my voltage gauge reads accurately now.
Well I think that’s the only think I haven’t done at this point to help my cooling system. Which engine grounds by the firewall are you talking about specifically?