Carpokes Porsche Forum

Yes, I am also curious about the highest EGTs you see at the end of a long straight.

DIdn't look at that data, still debugging lots of stuff! I have never had issues with EGTs, usually the highest EGT I see is during warm up when its on the rich side - up to 1800 - but the flow is so minimal its not an issue. Typical full load temps are 1700 ish.

I wish that I would have seen this thread earlier....

Tom, what material/metal did you use on your insert to the shield?

Steel. Needs to be steel if you want to weld it. You can get small sheets of steel at Home Depot or Ace, etc. They sell it in various gauges (thicknesses) so shoot for the closest they have to the original shield (which usually means the thickest sheet they sell). For welding, don't get galvanized or zinc-coated steel, just a raw sheet. Like this:

https://www.acehardware.com/departments ... lsrc=aw.ds

Working on doing another modified shield to clear a 3" downpipe. If I could come up with a catchy name, it might become a thing.

Folks who are in the Los Angeles area need to be aware of Industrial Metal Supply in the Sunland area just off I5. Smaller pieces, cut ends, etc. are sold by the pound at barely north of scrap-metal prices. They sell full-size stuff too, but the front showroom and the larger-pieces bins at the close end of the warehouse are a goldmine for DIY fabricators.

dr bob wrote: Fri Apr 01, 2022 3:49 pm Folks who are in the Los Angeles area need to be aware of Industrial Metal Supply in the Sunland area just off I5. Smaller pieces, cut ends, etc. are sold by the pound at barely north of scrap-metal prices. They sell full-size stuff too, but the front showroom and the larger-pieces bins at the close end of the warehouse are a goldmine for DIY fabricators.

We used to have a place like that in Silicon Valley but is went out of business maybe 5 years ago. Now, I tend to get whatever I need at onlinemetals.com They cut to size, which can sometimes help a lot. That said, the patch in this shield might very well be from an old wagon I saved for scrap. The blast cabinet deals with surface rust in minutes.

Here's the new shield modified and ready to go, with a factory original next to it so you can see the corner that gets cut out to make room for the 3" downpipe. I TIG'd the patch on (one side only) and then painted it in silver High Temp POR 15. I'm a POR 15 fan, and this high temp version is rated to 1200F, so "should' hold up in this location....

Chris, what is your perspective on wrap vs aftermarket coating. I don't have experience with long term wrap but someone brought up a point of possibility of oil getting onto/into the wrap thus creating a potential source for ignition.
Thank you

I have had a lot of coatings fail due to prolonged high temps....and I have had warps fail as well. Wraps are easy to replace. You could do both.
Don't worry about the oil contamination - the oil will be driven off by the heat unless its totally soaked. If it was soaked that much you would get an oil fire without the wrap!
I don't wrap headers - don't want to contain that much heat and there is nothing too sensitive in that area. the only place i really worry about is heat near the AOS.
Oh yeah - cheap wraps will fail....cheap coatings will fail....