Kroon Harness for 944 Turbo

[Gaspowered]

Sorry to hear that.
Could your new 2.5ohm injectors be causing an issue?
Also, just throwing this out there, what are the common components between your new motor and the old one?
I think I heard you mention the head, what about the fuel rail (damper, hose, regulator), intake manifold and the exhaust headers (cracks possibly?).
Just trying to understand why you are having the same issues with the new motor as you did with the old (as I know you are as well).
The above probably has as much to do with your issues as it does with the price of tea in China.

I wish you luck.

Cheers

[NCGermerican]

Sorry to hear that.
Could your new 2.5ohm injectors be causing an issue?
Also, just throwing this out there, what are the common components between your new motor and the old one?
I think I heard you mention the head, what about the fuel rail (damper, hose, regulator), intake manifold and the exhaust headers (cracks possibly?).
Just trying to understand why you are having the same issues with the new motor as you did with the old (as I know you are as well).
The above probably has as much to do with your issues as it does with the price of tea in China.

I wish you luck.

Cheers

I’ve been racking my brain on the same thing. Here’s what was carried over from the previous motor:

1) intake manifold - this is actually from a 944 turbo S (2 vacuum ports). I bought this on eBay and had it powdercoated by Plyhammers. I do get some movement from one of the banjo connections but it passed many smoke tests.

2) oil filter housing and oil cooler lines - I replaced the oil thermostat and cap as well as the OPRV (Rennbay) since the rebuilt block is from an 86 and required the older style.

3) oil cooler - I checked for clogs when I had the motor out

4) DME (focus9 w/ ODB+) and DME Relay

5) Fuel rail (replated from 944online) - bought when I had original motor

6) Header - assuming it’s original since I didn’t replace it. Just this evening I noticed that one nut (closest to cam gear housing) was a little loose

7) Brake booster - everything else is new (brake master, slave, clutch lines, etc.) booster passed the vacuum test

8) cylinder head - was rebuilt about 3 years ago with new springs, guides and seals. The only things that weren’t replaced was lifters and the oil valve in the head.

Just about everything else has been replaced since this issue stated.

If I think of anything else that is still original I’ll update the post.

It’s important to point out that this all started happening about 2 months after the motor was rebuilt. It ran great before that.

[chrischrischris]

I saw your video and am following your story. Couple questions about your car: Did you change the low pressure AC hose because on my car the low pressure port is in an awful spot right next to the compressor. I'd love to have your set-up instead. About the Storch MAF and interference from the cycling valve section on the J-boot: Do you think this would be an issue if you had the original turbo and the original J-boot?

I ask because I am considering the Storch and I also have that port blocked with a bolt on my stock JBoot.

[NCGermerican]

I saw your video and am following your story. Couple questions about your car: Did you change the low pressure AC hose because on my car the low pressure port is in an awful spot right next to the compressor. I'd love to have your set-up instead. About the Storch MAF and interference from the cycling valve section on the J-boot: Do you think this would be an issue if you had the original turbo and the original J-boot?

I ask because I am considering the Storch and I also have that port blocked with a bolt on my stock JBoot.

That AC line was replaced before I purchased the car. The issue is it's much thicker than the factory line, which is why I had to use the higher strut tower base risers (they're usually in the FRONT side of the struts).

If you have the factory j-boot, you shouldn't have any issues at all with the Storch MAF. Most of my fitment issues are due to the increased size of the LR Silicone J-boot. I'm sure when they originally designed it, it was for even larger turbo's and most of those cars probably had A/C delete, which moves the alternator down to where the A/C compressor typically sits. That would allow a LOT more room for the larger j-boot. I love my A/C though, so I'm dealing with the fitment issues the best I can.

[chrischrischris]

Thanks for the feedback! I have the LindseyMaxx chip too, and installed the specified 3.0 FPR. Are your new injectors supposed to be used with the 3.0 FPR as well? If you're not sure, it wouldn't hurt to double check.

Also wondering why you want to replace (with new) the whole front nose panel because of a dime sized ding. I think the current issue with your repair is that is not level with the rest of the surface. You could punch it out from the other side, or keep filling it with paint.

For a possible replacement, do you mean a "brand new" metal panel, or a straight used one? Seems to me like a very easy fix for a decent body shop, so just asking. Since you are modifying your car to increase performance I guess you could get a fiberglass version, which would be cool, but it is such a lightweight part already it seems like any performance gain due to lightening would be in the realm of wishful thinking.

[Tom]

Sorry to hear that.
Could your new 2.5ohm injectors be causing an issue?
Also, just throwing this out there, what are the common components between your new motor and the old one?
I think I heard you mention the head, what about the fuel rail (damper, hose, regulator), intake manifold and the exhaust headers (cracks possibly?).
Just trying to understand why you are having the same issues with the new motor as you did with the old (as I know you are as well).
The above probably has as much to do with your issues as it does with the price of tea in China.

I wish you luck.

Cheers

I’ve been racking my brain on the same thing. Here’s what was carried over from the previous motor:

1) intake manifold - this is actually from a 944 turbo S (2 vacuum ports). I bought this on eBay and had it powdercoated by Plyhammers. I do get some movement from one of the banjo connections but it passed many smoke tests.

2) oil filter housing and oil cooler lines - I replaced the oil thermostat and cap as well as the OPRV (Rennbay) since the rebuilt block is from an 86 and required the older style.

3) oil cooler - I checked for clogs when I had the motor out

4) DME (focus9 w/ ODB+) and DME Relay

5) Fuel rail (replated from 944online) - bought when I had original motor

6) Header - assuming it’s original since I didn’t replace it. Just this evening I noticed that one nut (closest to cam gear housing) was a little loose

7) Brake booster - everything else is new (brake master, slave, clutch lines, etc.) booster passed the vacuum test

8) cylinder head - was rebuilt about 3 years ago with new springs, guides and seals. The only things that weren’t replaced was lifters and the oil valve in the head.

Just about everything else has been replaced since this issue stated.

If I think of anything else that is still original I’ll update the post.

It’s important to point out that this all started happening about 2 months after the motor was rebuilt. It ran great before that.

Have you ever checked your altitude correction sensor under the dash? If it's incorrectly telling your car you are high in the mountains, it will pull 6% fuel and make the car run lean.... The sensor shorts the input to ground above 3281 feet, so assuming you are below that where you are, you can test quickly by just pulling the connector off. That will ensure it is not pulling 6% fuel. If you pull the connector off and your AFR goes richer, that's a nearly conclusive test the sensor is bad. You might disable the O2 sensor in the diagnostic port for the test too, just so the results are more obvious and not masked by the O2 sensor. You can test more officially with a multimeter -- the two wires should have no connection below 3281 feet and short out above 3281... They rarely go bad, but as a result they are almost always an afterthought when diagnosing issues like this. Fairly low chance that's your issue, but a chance nonetheless...

[NCGermerican]

Thanks for the feedback! I have the LindseyMaxx chip too, and installed the specified 3.0 FPR. Are your new injectors supposed to be used with the 3.0 FPR as well? If you're not sure, it wouldn't hurt to double check.

Also wondering why you want to replace (with new) the whole front nose panel because of a dime sized ding. I think the current issue with your repair is that is not level with the rest of the surface. You could punch it out from the other side, or keep filling it with paint.

For a possible replacement, do you mean a "brand new" metal panel, or a straight used one? Seems to me like a very easy fix for a decent body shop, so just asking. Since you are modifying your car to increase performance I guess you could get a fiberglass version, which would be cool, but it is such a lightweight part already it seems like any performance gain due to lightening would be in the realm of wishful thinking.

Injectors - yes the new, 50lb injectors that John Behe told me to use were based on a 3.0 bar FPR (I have a Delphi).

For the header panel, it was already broken before I had the car repainted. On the backside of the "thin" portion under the passenger side headlight, there is a portion that is broken and needs to be welded. I just figured that the cost to have my current one welded, plus the whole panel needing to be sanded primed, etc, I might as well just get a brand new header panel (between $4-500). While I'm making performance upgrades to the car, I'm going for OEM+, so I would prefer to stay with a regular steel panel.

[NCGermerican]

Have you ever checked your altitude correction sensor under the dash? If it's incorrectly telling your car you are high in the mountains, it will pull 6% fuel and make the car run lean.... The sensor shorts the input to ground above 3281 feet, so assuming you are below that where you are, you can test quickly by just pulling the connector off. That will ensure it is not pulling 6% fuel. If you pull the connector off and your AFR goes richer, that's a nearly conclusive test the sensor is bad. You might disable the O2 sensor in the diagnostic port for the test too, just so the results are more obvious and not masked by the O2 sensor. You can test more officially with a multimeter -- the two wires should have no connection below 3281 feet and short out above 3281... They rarely go bad, but as a result they are almost always an afterthought when diagnosing issues like this. Fairly low chance that's your issue, but a chance nonetheless...

I've had my altitude sensor unplugged since I replaced the wiring harness. With the Storch MAF, you're also supposed to disconnect the altitude sensor as well.

I'm hoping to get back into the car this evening - had the PCV's go out on the RS5 (video on that coming!) and I finally finished with a deck refinish, so time to get this 951 figured out....

I wish it wasn't 90 and high humidity this week.......

[NCGermerican]

I have an update and HOPEFULLY can get some closure on my issues.

1) I found an intake leak at the banjo bolt fitting. It looks like the threaded insert into the IM has come loose.
I was finally able to find this through a boost leak test and some soapy water. I don't think the smoke machine caused enough pressure.

2) I found (2) exhaust leaks while smoke testing the exhaust system through the primary o2 bung in the crossover pipe. The first is easy - it was at the junction flange that Lindsey Racing made. Easy enough to tighten down. The second was more.....disheartening. I was showing smoke at the crossover to turbo junction. I took everything apart AGAIN and tightened down all 4 bolts. Such a fun thing to do. I got them as tight as possible and STILL SMOKE! The problem - the weld must have cracked from the pipe to the flange. I saw a post on another forum that someone had the same issue. Since today is Memorial Day, there doesn't seem to be an exhaust shop open to have it welded up. Honestly, the factory welds inside the flange are pretty crappy. I'm surprised they didn't weld on the outside of the flange to the pipe, unless they were worried about a weld getting too close to the bolt holes, not allowing for a washer to sit flush against the flange?

Regardless, both of these could at least be contributing to my issues. Especially the exhaust leaks that could (in theory) be introducing oxygen prior to both o2 sensors, creating incorrect AFR readings on the o2 sensors.

[chrischrischris]

I remember eyeing up that insert on my manifold somewhat recently since it looked like some of the original sealant had fallen out. I convinced myself it was not an issue, but should take another look. What material do you think is best to make the repair: JB Weld?