944 Flywheel Lock
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dr bob
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Late to the comment party, but...
If this fits in a clutch slave opening as the one for the 928 does, the little three-teeth engagement from the metal one probably fits with plenty of room to spare. Consider a much larger protrusion that engages more teeth. You only need teeth on that where it actually contacts the ring gear, so it might be easy to make the support higher and the teeth shorter.
Meanwhile...
I use a 3/4" drive socket with about four feet of handle on it to loosen the crank nose bolt on my car. It comes out smoothly and easily that way. Phil Lever (one of the famous Lever Brothers IIRC) offed that hint in an old fizzeks book...
You can calculate the force on the plastic pretty easily once you have the dimensions and the diameter of the ring gear. With more teeth engaged and a more substantial post for them to sit on, you -might- find an extrusion material that would work.
Disclaimer: I've considered getting a 3D printer setup, know 3D design in AutoCad pretty well, but have done absolutely zero research on the materials available. So Caveat Empty (that's where my brain would normally sit...)
If this fits in a clutch slave opening as the one for the 928 does, the little three-teeth engagement from the metal one probably fits with plenty of room to spare. Consider a much larger protrusion that engages more teeth. You only need teeth on that where it actually contacts the ring gear, so it might be easy to make the support higher and the teeth shorter.
Meanwhile...
I use a 3/4" drive socket with about four feet of handle on it to loosen the crank nose bolt on my car. It comes out smoothly and easily that way. Phil Lever (one of the famous Lever Brothers IIRC) offed that hint in an old fizzeks book...
You can calculate the force on the plastic pretty easily once you have the dimensions and the diameter of the ring gear. With more teeth engaged and a more substantial post for them to sit on, you -might- find an extrusion material that would work.
Disclaimer: I've considered getting a 3D printer setup, know 3D design in AutoCad pretty well, but have done absolutely zero research on the materials available. So Caveat Empty (that's where my brain would normally sit...)
dr bob
1989 928 S4, black with cashmere/black inside
SoCal 928 Group Cofounder
928 Owner's Club Charter Member
Former Ex Bend Yacht Club Commodore Emeritus
Free Advice and Commentary. Use At Your Own Risk!
1989 928 S4, black with cashmere/black inside
SoCal 928 Group Cofounder
928 Owner's Club Charter Member
Former Ex Bend Yacht Club Commodore Emeritus
Free Advice and Commentary. Use At Your Own Risk!
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Tom
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Yes, one of my many plans (aka, fleeting thoughts I swear I'll do some day) was to create a new design that engages with as many teeth as possible in the available window, maybe with one of the fancy materials described below.
PLA is the most popular plastic for home printers, because it's so easy to print. But it doesn't hold up to a summer day in a car, so has limited use for car nuts. I use ABS (or its UV-resistant cousin, ASA) for most things. It's good to 200F or so and works well for most things I do. I've recently been experimenting with PPA-CF (polyphthalamide and carbon fiber), which is by far the strongest plastic I've ever come across and is good to nearly 500F degrees (though very expensive as 3D printer filament goes -- about 15 times the cost of ABS).
https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ ... xOQGcB-u1H
I was going to make a lug nut socket in this stuff to see how it does, and am pretty optimistic. Beyond that, there's a near-mythical new plastic called Tullomer that claims to be stronger still. They all quote different types of strength specs, making them hard to compare, but this one claims to be stronger than stainless steel. The PPA-CF looks quite nice when printed, however, whereas the Tullomer looks stringy and rough in all the pictures I've seen of it in the wild. So the Tullomer may be better for unseen substrates, etc.
https://z-polymers.com/product-info
As for printers, the X1c from Bambu Lab prints all of these materials and remains the standard bearer for home printers in my opinion (and for most who comment on such things).
PLA is the most popular plastic for home printers, because it's so easy to print. But it doesn't hold up to a summer day in a car, so has limited use for car nuts. I use ABS (or its UV-resistant cousin, ASA) for most things. It's good to 200F or so and works well for most things I do. I've recently been experimenting with PPA-CF (polyphthalamide and carbon fiber), which is by far the strongest plastic I've ever come across and is good to nearly 500F degrees (though very expensive as 3D printer filament goes -- about 15 times the cost of ABS).
https://us.store.bambulab.com/products/ ... xOQGcB-u1H
I was going to make a lug nut socket in this stuff to see how it does, and am pretty optimistic. Beyond that, there's a near-mythical new plastic called Tullomer that claims to be stronger still. They all quote different types of strength specs, making them hard to compare, but this one claims to be stronger than stainless steel. The PPA-CF looks quite nice when printed, however, whereas the Tullomer looks stringy and rough in all the pictures I've seen of it in the wild. So the Tullomer may be better for unseen substrates, etc.
https://z-polymers.com/product-info
As for printers, the X1c from Bambu Lab prints all of these materials and remains the standard bearer for home printers in my opinion (and for most who comment on such things).