997.1 C4S RWD conversion

[Maruscmn]

Bravo! Your skill at this is definitely showing in this work!

[Tom]

Bravo! Your skill at this is definitely showing in this work!

I can't find your address now. Can you re-send it to me, and I'll get this in the mail.

[Maruscmn]

Done!

[Maruscmn]

Update! Received the 3D printed driveshaft cap (not sure what to call this part) from Tom:

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Took out the 16mm bracket bolts and loosed the transmission ones (15mm) (took the top one off to swing the bracket down)

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Installed the cap after applying a little plastilube on the exposed metal, I used the factory bolts and snugged them down. I opted not to use any blue loctite as the factory did not. Looks like a great fit!

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Torqued the bolts to 48 ft.lbs and put the bottom panels back on. Broke two studs in the process so I have another project….

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Mike
OPS

[Tom]

Looking good! Did the metal inserts make contact with the metal on the flange? If not, I'd put some washers in there. If the plastic is bearing the brunt of the torque/compression, the bolts will eventually get loose and the plastic permanently deforms/compresses. Or put Nylock nuts on the back side.

And I love the sticker.

[Maruscmn]

The torx bolt flange was making contact with the insert’s, combined with the low torque value, makes me believe it will be good to go! I tell you those 16mm brace bolts Im getting a little shy of taking them on and off as if they break, it wont be pretty!
Mike

[Tom]

The torx bolt flange was making contact with the insert’s, combined with the low torque value, makes me believe it will be good to go! I tell you those 16mm brace bolts Im getting a little shy of taking them on and off as if they break, it wont be pretty!
Mike

Right, there's no problem on the side with the bolt head. I was talking about the side where the 3D-printed part mates to the car. If that side is plastic on metal, I'd recommend putting washers in the flange recess to ensure you are torquing metal on metal.

[Maruscmn]

Copy! If i had to guess the majority of the stress will be generated axial; What I will do is check up on it after a drive or two!

[fs_builds]

This thread is awesome. There are so many wrong information out there that actually seeing it done is priceless.
I ordered everything you’re showing on the first post and one it gets here will get to work on mine also.

Reading on Rennline it says the following:
On 997.1, Front diff must be retained or electrical portion of electrohydraulic clutch must be modified.

Did you had to do anything on the clutch? I recall seeing your driveshaft and front differential on the floor.

@Tom is you still have the file and willing to print me one I’ll happily buy it from you.

Thanks
Filipe
Thanks

[Maruscmn]

Filipe,

Glad it has been helpful and I can help you through the process once you start! Rennline I believe has a typo as it should be the 997.2. Our 997.1's have no electronic connections and is an old "dumb" system. (and yes it's still on the floor and I have not rebuilt the CV boots yet.....) Hey I would grab the transmission mount insert as I would bet yours will fall apart like mine!

Toms cover has worked flawlessly after 500 miles. I will make it part of a check when I change the oil but so far so good (hell of a job Tom!)

I am getting an alignment done one the 18th and will post the results.

Mike