Its generally said the split torque tubes in S2's and 968 aren't rebuildable due to the first bearing not staying in place. Since I've not been able to source a solid torque tube for my car we're attempting to modify ours to solve this issue.
Torque tube out the car ready to remove the driveshaft and old bearings. The split had widened from just under 3mm at the ends to nearly 6mm in the middle. I wont go into detail of stripping the tube here, we used the technique in the following Youtube video
Bearings and drive shaft removed, we had an issue with the first bearing going out of alignment and binding up on the driveshaft as we hammered it out. We had to clamp the torque tube to capture the bearing in alignment again and allow the driveshaft to move through easily.
Once stripped we sent the tube off to be sandblasted, we then marked up the bearing locations ( Were using the Blacksea R&D bearings which are approx 80mm long, you would need to use a different strategy to bracing for the stock sized bearings.) We used some heavy duty tillet hose camps to close up the split while keeping the tube in shape. We measured the split and OD of the tube at 100mm intervals to ensure it was consistent along the split and solid sections.
We had our fabricator weld on some gussets either side of the bearing locations for bearing one (middle of split) and bearing two ( end of split). He turned up a small plug to insert into the tube while he welded it to prevent any distortion.
We are waiting for a coat of paint on the TT and driveshaft to dry and will be rebuilding the TT later this week, Ill share some more photos once its complete.
Split Torque Tube Rebuild
- Tom
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Very interesting stuff, looking forward to hearing how it turns out, I wasn't aware the S2 and 968 TT's had that slit in it. What's the purpose of it?Bergerac wrote: Fri Nov 15, 2024 11:07 pm Its generally said the split torque tubes in S2's and 968 aren't rebuildable due to the first bearing not staying in place. Since I've not been able to source a solid torque tube for my car we're attempting to modify ours to solve this issue.
Torque tube out the car ready to remove the driveshaft and old bearings. The split had widened from just under 3mm at the ends to nearly 6mm in the middle. I wont go into detail of stripping the tube here, we used the technique in the following Youtube video
PXL_20241104_033810091 (1).jpg
Bearings and drive shaft removed, we had an issue with the first bearing going out of alignment and binding up on the driveshaft as we hammered it out. We had to clamp the torque tube to capture the bearing in alignment again and allow the driveshaft to move through easily.
PXL_20241104_050002275.jpg
Once stripped we sent the tube off to be sandblasted, we then marked up the bearing locations ( Were using the Blacksea R&D bearings which are approx 80mm long, you would need to use a different strategy to bracing for the stock sized bearings.) We used some heavy duty tillet hose camps to close up the split while keeping the tube in shape. We measured the split and OD of the tube at 100mm intervals to ensure it was consistent along the split and solid sections.
PXL_20241111_052957653.jpg
We had our fabricator weld on some gussets either side of the bearing locations for bearing one (middle of split) and bearing two ( end of split). He turned up a small plug to insert into the tube while he welded it to prevent any distortion.
PXL_20241116_060453389.jpg
We are waiting for a coat of paint on the TT and driveshaft to dry and will be rebuilding the TT later this week, Ill share some more photos once its complete.
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dr bob
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Don't know if this adds any value to the discussion --
For the not-split torque tube in my 928, I added a couple pop-rivets through the tube at each bearing to keep them in place. The front one particularly likes to walk forward toward the bellhousing, a challenge that can't be solved with an ABS sleeve between bearings inside the tube. Pop-rivets are handy in that you can easily drill them out next time the bearings actually need to come out. This may not be a concern or even desirable with the Black Sea bearings in the rubber carriers, but for the original-style bearings it works a treat.
Challenges with the solid tube have included spiral stress cracking from vibration/resonance under high loads. Perhaps the split tube is to eliminate that resonance?
Watching.
For the not-split torque tube in my 928, I added a couple pop-rivets through the tube at each bearing to keep them in place. The front one particularly likes to walk forward toward the bellhousing, a challenge that can't be solved with an ABS sleeve between bearings inside the tube. Pop-rivets are handy in that you can easily drill them out next time the bearings actually need to come out. This may not be a concern or even desirable with the Black Sea bearings in the rubber carriers, but for the original-style bearings it works a treat.
Challenges with the solid tube have included spiral stress cracking from vibration/resonance under high loads. Perhaps the split tube is to eliminate that resonance?
Watching.
dr bob
1989 928 S4, black with cashmere/black inside
SoCal 928 Group Cofounder
928 Owner's Club Charter Member
Former Ex Bend Yacht Club Commodore Emeritus
Free Advice and Commentary. Use At Your Own Risk!
1989 928 S4, black with cashmere/black inside
SoCal 928 Group Cofounder
928 Owner's Club Charter Member
Former Ex Bend Yacht Club Commodore Emeritus
Free Advice and Commentary. Use At Your Own Risk!
Yes I believe it was a vibration/resonance mitigation measure for the 3L motors. The dual mass flywheel in the 968 solves this issue.
Constantine from Blacksea attempted to use rivets to pin the first bearing from what I understand but it still lead to the first bearing moving.
I wish I had gotten better photos of how distorted the tube was, I can only imagine how much it was moving under dynamic load and hope the bracing I've added holds up to that stress
Constantine from Blacksea attempted to use rivets to pin the first bearing from what I understand but it still lead to the first bearing moving.
I wish I had gotten better photos of how distorted the tube was, I can only imagine how much it was moving under dynamic load and hope the bracing I've added holds up to that stress
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Zirconocene
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I've wondered for a long time why I'd never seen anyone take the approach you did to fixing the split TT. It's hard to know why that wouldn't work.
Following up on @dr bob 's comment, it seems to me that drilling and tapping a hole for a stout, short bolt, would also work well, perhaps something like an M10 x 20 mm. These things don't have to be rebuilt so often, I guess, that that level of ability to disassembly would be required but I like to think long term about my cars, I guess.
Cheers
Following up on @dr bob 's comment, it seems to me that drilling and tapping a hole for a stout, short bolt, would also work well, perhaps something like an M10 x 20 mm. These things don't have to be rebuilt so often, I guess, that that level of ability to disassembly would be required but I like to think long term about my cars, I guess.
Cheers
Cheers
1990 928 GT
1990 928 S4
1991 944 S2
1993 968
2002 911 C2
1990 928 GT
1990 928 S4
1991 944 S2
1993 968
2002 911 C2
Its been
Theres a few people who had done it in the past.I am a little concerned since I will be pushing into the high 400s that the TT will twist and pop those welds, well see I guess.Zirconocene wrote: Tue Dec 17, 2024 1:37 pm I've wondered for a long time why I'd never seen anyone take the approach you did to fixing the split TT. It's hard to know why that wouldn't work.
Following up on @dr bob 's comment, it seems to me that drilling and tapping a hole for a stout, short bolt, would also work well, perhaps something like an M10 x 20 mm. These things don't have to be rebuilt so often, I guess, that that level of ability to disassembly would be required but I like to think long term about my cars, I guess.![]()
Cheers
From the classic training manual
Transaxle
The central tube is slotted at the front to avoid torsional resonances which are transferred from the engine to the transmission via the central tube. The slot is sealed with adhesive film to protect against the ingress of dirt.
Transaxle
The central tube is slotted at the front to avoid torsional resonances which are transferred from the engine to the transmission via the central tube. The slot is sealed with adhesive film to protect against the ingress of dirt.
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cda951
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Hi @Bergerac ,
Any updates on your progress? I am now faced with the prospect of attempting to rebuild my 944S2 cabriolet split torque tube or attempting to locate a good solid version and hope the vibrations aren't too bad. This car is a super smooth cruiser with zero pretensions for performance use, I have a modified 951 for that purpose.
Thank you!
Any updates on your progress? I am now faced with the prospect of attempting to rebuild my 944S2 cabriolet split torque tube or attempting to locate a good solid version and hope the vibrations aren't too bad. This car is a super smooth cruiser with zero pretensions for performance use, I have a modified 951 for that purpose.
Thank you!
Chris A.
---'86 944 Turbo track rat
---'90 944S2 Cab daily/touring car
---'73 BMW 2002tii road rally car
---'81 Alfa Romeo GTV6 GT car/Copart special
---'99 BMW Z3 Coupe daily driver/dog car
---'74 Jensen-Healey roadster
---other stuff
---'86 944 Turbo track rat
---'90 944S2 Cab daily/touring car
---'73 BMW 2002tii road rally car
---'81 Alfa Romeo GTV6 GT car/Copart special
---'99 BMW Z3 Coupe daily driver/dog car
---'74 Jensen-Healey roadster
---other stuff
