Slow crank rate when hot - 2006 911

[911-Purist]

The cable itself is around $150+-. I think if a guy was quite skilled, efficient, and had done the job before, it might be a 3 hour job or so with all the right tools.

When I replaced that cable on my friend's 2005 997 in 2017, I think it was about $150 and it took me about 3 hours to replace it. Of course we had a lift and all the tools.

Of course the owner isn't that technical and bought the "recommendations" on Rennlist to replace that cable, which of course was not the issue. I told him so, but he had it and wanted it installed.

So lets do some numbers: at MSRP for the cable (shops pay wholesale), there is profit in it, then 3 hours at a whopping $250 an hour is $750, so we are sitting at well under $1000. By the way, I love working on cars, motorcycles and aircraft and I took my time, so you can do it in less than 3 hours.

And $250 an hour? They are an effing mechanic, not a brain surgeon. I'd love to see them do a control systems problem if I threw LaPlace tables at them.

This is one thing that really grinds my gears about Porsche dealers and even the indy shops...their prices are unreal. They mark up parts 3-4X, bill at $250/hour, and that still isn't enough! I do all of my own work to the extent that I can, and I dread the day that I ever need to go to a shop.

Same here, HVAC, plumbing, electrical, concrete work and all to higher standards than those clowns. Same when I was a flight instructor, worked on aircraft that I flew the next day....now that is trust. LOL

[agalermo]

In my case, I believe the "Y" cable most definitely was part of the problem.

Well I believe in testing instead of guessing. I took some voltage drop measurements proving the cable was fine. In a 12V system the maximum allowable voltage drop is 0.5V from source to load.

Unfortunately, my 997 friend had already bought the cable and he wanted it installed since he had it. Once we had the cable off, all crimps looked fine of course and he threw out a perfectly good cable. I installed the new cable and those hold-downs running across the back of the engine were a PITA to get to.

Still a slow hot start after that, no surprise. I had him replace the starter while I took his old one apart and noted the issue. Jokingly I said, "its not your starter"...just kidding I said a few moments later.

I, too, preferred to test voltage drops to diagnose where the issue was coming from (e.g. starter, alternator cable, battery). My issue ended up being the starter. One thing I have to say about that is I think auto zone sells refurbished starters for the 997. DO NOT BUY THEM. Buy OEM and brand new! Had a refurbished one crap out one week later and it was just double the work to get it out and put in a brand new OEM version...

I wouldn't say that you've wasted your time putting in the new alternator cable as the latest version for the 997 is thicker and more robust compared to what the car originally came out of the factory with. So, it was definitely preventative maintenance!

During my 997 ownership, I've replaced the starter, installed updated alternator cable, and car battery (Duralast gold). OEM starter should last ~60k miles along with the original old alternator cable. I found that Duralast gold lasts ~3 years which caused me to get a Battery Tender and maintainer. Turns out the 997 draws quite the amount of juice from the battery during each start, so if you want to maximize crank power, definitely look into keeping your battery charged with a Battery Tender and Maintainer!

[Tom]

In my case, I believe the "Y" cable most definitely was part of the problem.

Well I believe in testing instead of guessing. I took some voltage drop measurements proving the cable was fine. In a 12V system the maximum allowable voltage drop is 0.5V from source to load.

Unfortunately, my 997 friend had already bought the cable and he wanted it installed since he had it. Once we had the cable off, all crimps looked fine of course and he threw out a perfectly good cable. I installed the new cable and those hold-downs running across the back of the engine were a PITA to get to.

Still a slow hot start after that, no surprise. I had him replace the starter while I took his old one apart and noted the issue. Jokingly I said, "its not your starter"...just kidding I said a few moments later.

I, too, preferred to test voltage drops to diagnose where the issue was coming from (e.g. starter, alternator cable, battery). My issue ended up being the starter. One thing I have to say about that is I think auto zone sells refurbished starters for the 997. DO NOT BUY THEM. Buy OEM and brand new! Had a refurbished one crap out one week later and it was just double the work to get it out and put in a brand new OEM version...

I wouldn't say that you've wasted your time putting in the new alternator cable as the latest version for the 997 is thicker and more robust compared to what the car originally came out of the factory with. So, it was definitely preventative maintenance!

During my 997 ownership, I've replaced the starter, installed updated alternator cable, and car battery (Duralast gold). OEM starter should last ~60k miles along with the original old alternator cable. I found that Duralast gold lasts ~3 years which caused me to get a Battery Tender and maintainer. Turns out the 997 draws quite the amount of juice from the battery during each start, so if you want to maximize crank power, definitely look into keeping your battery charged with a Battery Tender and Maintainer!

+1 on the rebuilt starters from the big chain auto parts stores. I replaced the one on my 944 at least 3 times until I finally learned my lesson. I ended up getting a unit "rebuilt" by Bosch itself, and can vouch for those. It comes in a Bosch box. I put "rebuilt" in quotes because it looked to me like a brand new starter... Entirely different than those sticky black things with loose electrical posts they sell at O'Reilly and AutoZone, etc.

[911-Purist]

My issue ended up being the starter. One thing I have to say about that is I think auto zone sells refurbished starters for the 997. DO NOT BUY THEM. Buy OEM and brand new! Had a refurbished one crap out one week later and it was just double the work to get it out and put in a brand new OEM version...

Turns out the 997 draws quite the amount of juice from the battery during each start, so if you want to maximize crank power, definitely look into keeping your battery charged with a Battery Tender and Maintainer!

On the RL forum some years ago: alternator issues and buying rebuilt units. Most of them are rebuilt and if done right, they are as good as new.

I noted that even Bosch units, very few parts were replaced. They turned down the slip rings and they are thin to start with. They tested the rectifier pack and reused it. They did replace both bearings and the regulator/brush set and glass beaded the unit. Big deal. Personally I would never turn down slip rings on my lathe; I'd replace them. In fact I used the bearings from WBD (waiglobal) due to the higher temperature grease they use (considering where the alternator is located) and a smoother running bearing.

As for having a battery on a charger/maintainer, you'll know the battery will always be charged and will never sulphate. The trouble is, you never know when the battery gets weak and capacity drops over time. It'll always start the vehicle, but if left parked for a day it might not start it then. If you have accessories drawing current, of course I would use it all the time.

I spot charge my batteries (unless you are away for months) and monitor the battery voltage. When it drops a few tenths (12.8V to 12.6V), I'll connect the charger/maintainer again for a day and then disconnect it.