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Engelbert
First 50 Miles with the rebuilt engine in the Targa
Drove the first 50 miles with the Targa yesterday with the newly rebuilt 3.4L engine, all good so far.
Now I can move on to the 71 911 and start assembling.
Cheers
Engelbert
Now I can move on to the 71 911 and start assembling.
Cheers
Engelbert
LED lights for classic Porsches http://carmagic.us/
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Tom
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Awesome. Congrats. Any special break-in procedure?
Not over 4k RPM for the first 300miles, then oil change.
Cheers
Engelbert
LED lights for classic Porsches http://carmagic.us/
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drWyreMoore
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Special break in? A little, yes.
I had the engine rebuilt (California town), and didn’t even start it aside to confirm it worked. Trailered across town to red line (very trusted shop) who made it road trip ready.
Engine had cutting oil in it, not standard detergent. Yes, for 300 miles, kept it under 4k rpm’s. At 300 miles, Oil change: oil I took from red line: fresh valvoline vr1 20-50 regular oil w high zinc, a Racing oil n filter change. No issues for years, my oil of choice till the next shop told me differently.
My oil of choice varies by the shop experts of the area. (Sometimes, other times I insist). Just sharing as oil choice can be political, I’m not. Drove the car that 3 day weekend north 1000 miles (US pacific highway One) - no engine concerns at all or since.
Oil history - Most recent on top:
Since 2020 former racer and owner says nothing but Red Line oil, high in zinc (good for engine) Racing oil 50wt synthetic
Sku 0 83522 10504 0 which is a
sae 15w50 for racing engines only,
Fully synthetic. What I have in her now. Order from Amazon; have two qts always in the boot, but doesn’t need top offs between oil changes). No engine problems.
Mid-west: Number of years with Rick the mechanic and former racer who prefers 5W50 Mobile 1 European blend ( till he retired and sold his shop to an independent who didn’t come across as P car experienced; so I went elsewhere). No engine problems.
West coast: After rebuild - Redline (the shop) suggests after breaking in of 300 miles, valvoline vr1 20-50 regular oil, w high zinc, a Racing oil. Suggests a classic air cooled P car, with high mileage, driven as it should, to avoid (as in never use) synthetics. Used this for 2 yrs, no problems.
I had the engine rebuilt (California town), and didn’t even start it aside to confirm it worked. Trailered across town to red line (very trusted shop) who made it road trip ready.
Engine had cutting oil in it, not standard detergent. Yes, for 300 miles, kept it under 4k rpm’s. At 300 miles, Oil change: oil I took from red line: fresh valvoline vr1 20-50 regular oil w high zinc, a Racing oil n filter change. No issues for years, my oil of choice till the next shop told me differently.
My oil of choice varies by the shop experts of the area. (Sometimes, other times I insist). Just sharing as oil choice can be political, I’m not. Drove the car that 3 day weekend north 1000 miles (US pacific highway One) - no engine concerns at all or since.
Oil history - Most recent on top:
Since 2020 former racer and owner says nothing but Red Line oil, high in zinc (good for engine) Racing oil 50wt synthetic
Sku 0 83522 10504 0 which is a
sae 15w50 for racing engines only,
Fully synthetic. What I have in her now. Order from Amazon; have two qts always in the boot, but doesn’t need top offs between oil changes). No engine problems.
Mid-west: Number of years with Rick the mechanic and former racer who prefers 5W50 Mobile 1 European blend ( till he retired and sold his shop to an independent who didn’t come across as P car experienced; so I went elsewhere). No engine problems.
West coast: After rebuild - Redline (the shop) suggests after breaking in of 300 miles, valvoline vr1 20-50 regular oil, w high zinc, a Racing oil. Suggests a classic air cooled P car, with high mileage, driven as it should, to avoid (as in never use) synthetics. Used this for 2 yrs, no problems.