johan wrote: ↑Fri Apr 19, 2024 8:52 amso hopefully that solves the play

You have nothing to solve; the play you describe is normal and necessary

Old-school tapered spindle type bearings will *always* have some play. As the MOT suggests, it's fine

PS: This is something never mentioned in the manuals or procedures. Older mechanics just knew.. and it's how I eventually learned from one such mechanic

NCGermerican wrote: ↑Fri Feb 23, 2024 11:21 am The cold start on my old '16 Scat Pack Charger would make it sound like the house was falling down.

We had to teach my mom how to use her 1987 Honda Civic's manual choke. Three positions.. the furthest out idled aprox. 3,000rpm.

She'd often just leave it there

Is there any provision for a "fast idle" when cold? (Mine idles at ~840 hot or cold). Idle doesn't change at all at cold start? Strange. I always have a slight change--I'd guess about +200rpm--at dead cold. But no, there isn't a "fast idle" like that on old carbs or japanese car...

Most likely beats this old piece of **** I have just like the one below; when hooked to the coil, shows something under 700 rpm while tach is showing at least 900

To think I used take this instrument as gospel when adjusting the carbs on my old VWs

Thanks Joe.. well, they do allow a +/- 40 rpm lol

Sport DME OBD shows rpm. Where from? Accurate?

On a 944 Turbo with a stock 1988 program, this should be around 85.5% open IIRC. However, some performance chips have changed this value for some reason. This is very new and interesting info thanks I have always set the idle so that there is no change when using the jumper as I assume the ICV is s...

Wow that digikey site is wild.. you can build your own MAP sensor :crazy: Day two: problem hasn't returned. Looks like the MAP might be it. Now.. I found this technical drawing that suggests MAP sensors should be mounted "pointing down" so that any moisture in the line doesn't find its way...

Tom wrote: ↑Wed Feb 07, 2024 3:40 pm ...with 'most' aftermarket chips, you need a companion KLR chip to eliminate the 'overboost' protection.

The A-Tune also uses stock KLR chip and my understanding is you can boost up to 19 psi without triggering overboost

Glad the op got the issue solved

Thanks Chris... does look like a good USA made one for a good price... I was able to get a Walker replacement quick... so far seems to be doing the trick.